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ALASSIO
Certainly Alassio by the sea and born, grown and flourished because
of the sea: 3 Kms of beautiful beaches with the finest, cleanest
sand not found anywhere else in Italy.
Legend has it that the Emperor Otho's daughter, Adelasia, found
happiness and love with Aleramo here. Historically, it was not
founded by the Benedictines, the Catalans, the Saracens, nor the
Spanish coral divers, but it was built up from pre-existing Ligurian
centres first in the Mountain Region (St. Anne) and then at the
Castè of the Madonna of the Graces. There are controversies
surrounding its name: from Adelesia-Alasia, from Tirasso (Rasso-Arassi)
from Arasse (a rivier in Asia Minor) from A-rasse (below) to assem
(near the shipyards), and from Salacia (goddess of the sea). It
was born around the year One Thousand and lived for 6 centuries
off of fishing, gardening and poverty; then the shipyard industry
and maritime commerce took off in the entire Mediterranean. The
Alassians, like the Laiguegliese, were always among the most sought-after
sailors from Genoa and Marseilles. The golden years were between
1600 and 1700, then Napoleon and his French troops destroyed the
flourishing beauty of our land. We went back to the previous
and hardscrabble poverty, until a group of English colonies, returning
from the Far East, chose Alassio as a regular residence, for its
constant, mild climate (even in winter) and for the healthfulness
of the air and for the beautiful gulf. Several prestigious
villas remain on the hills which surround the town and protect
it from cold Northern winds. So, at the end of the 19th century,
the tourist and seaside trades took off, which still compete in
sunny days and even temperatures with the best locations in the
south of Italy.
Il muretto: (the wall)
In the early 50's Alassio was one of the capitals of international high society:
great names from filmdom and culture, shows and events all day long, Beautiful
People.
The main reason for all this is the Caffè Roma, an historical locale
run by the Berrino family, a real meeting point where it was essential to be
a member if you belonged to the jetset and were on holiday in Alassio or on
the Riviera. In front of the Caffè Roma passed dream cars, divas and
starlettes, writers, painters, musicians, and spectators. But also in front
of the Caffè Roma, like a heap of fertilizer in a public garden, was
an anonymous little wall, so bare as to torment Mario Berrino: “So naked
it was unworthy of the vivacity and sensitivity of the guests seated at their
tables... I was tormented by the idea of bestowing a bit of grace and put it
out of its misery with a few ornaments." And in fact in 1953, after an
encounter with Ernest Hemingway, an habitué of the Caffè, the
idea took shape and became reality. Mario Berrino loved to show his guests
an album with the autographs of the most famous people who had been to his
bar; over time, the pages grew and the dedications and autographs became such
precious pearls that it seemed a shame to keep them hidden. So when it came
time for Hemingway to sign, Berrino pitched his idea: copy the signature onto
a coloured ceramic tile and use it to decorate this little wall: "Okay,
Mario, " said the writer, "Okay, you have to do it." He had
to act quickly to avoid possible bureaucratic obstacles, so at dawn, unnoticed,
Mario Barrino stuck the first three tiles (made with the help of the ceramic
maker Pacetti): Hemingway, the Cetra Quartet, and Cosimo di Ceglie. The next
day there were no complaints. During the days following, more and more tiles
appeared, as if nothing was going on. Mayor Torre and the entire city had certainly
thought that something brilliant was being born, and that it was better to
pretend to ignore it so as to get in the way as little as possible. And that
was how it went. Today there are 550 tiles.
The monuments
There are numerous monuments: from one of the symbols of the city, the tower
of Borgo Coscia, to the Santa Chiara monastery. From the parish Collegiate
of Saint Ambrose (dating back to the 15th century and transformed into baroque
style in the 17th century) to the Church of St. Anne (1736).
From the Church of St. Mary of the Angels to that of St. Mary of Charity
(1400).From the Cappucine Church (16th century) to the oratory of Madonna
of the People and St. Erasmus (1614). From the sanctuary of the Madonna of
the Guard which rises up from Mount Tirasso ( 586m) and houses many ex voto,
to the Church of the Madonna of the Graces (called Castè) around which
settled the first families who later were the origin of the "Burgum
Alaxii". Lastly, but only in order of the list here, another symbol
of Alassio, the Church of the Holy Cross, erected on a rock looking over
the sea.Among the destinations to visit are the famous "caruggios",
also known as the "budello" (the historic centre), and the "Muretto",
which has become a symbol of the city in the 50's, when Alassio was the capital
of the international jetset.
The beaches and the treasures from the sea:
Even underwater it is still Alassio, with its flour-like white
sand, like beaches in the tropics. The wide beach, as wide as
50m in places, very long, as long as the city itself, follows
the coast to form a large gulf, protected from the deep seabed
for hundreds of metres. This is the Bay of Alassio, large
and sandy with deep seabeds and no currents. At the centre of
the city, a long jetty stretches out perpendicular to the coast,
where the depth at the end it is only 3m, frequented by huge
schools of mullets and occasional bream. Heading east, you come
to the Holy Cross Cape, behind which is the tourist port of Alassio.
For those who want to admire a varied and colourful underwater,
these sea beds are of great interest, and they start at the punta
Marina where there is a series of cliffs which follow the coast
up to the border with Albenga. Here too just a few meters deep
you can see various types of fish and shellfish, winkles, mollusks
and bivalves. There are vari-coloured damselfish, intensely coloured
gamefish, scorpionfish hiding amongst the rocks, and the ever-shy
octopus and squid. But it's easy to come across sharpsnout and
royal bream, especially after the tides, as it's easy to find
bream. Swimming towards open sea, the sand is interrupted by
majestic fields of sea grass, among which are celano sparli,
green gamefish and a few jet-blacks. Often the sea grasses are
literally surrounded by schools of "zerli" and "ciuccole" two
locally named fish. You can find various kinds of shells on the
beach, especially murigi shells. Once you get to Cape Lena, low
and bowl-like because of the detritus carried here by the river
Centa, the seabed is no longer interesting from a diver's point
of view, except for occasional mountain winds that clear the
waters. In this case it's easy to come across a big bass attracted
to the fishy waters. At Gallinara island, there are only the
water's surfaces to admire because of the prohibition of bathing
and diving. About 500 metres to the east of the island there
is a wonderful wreck, the Umberto I, a merchant ship settled
onto the sands about 50m deep. Last, right in front of Albenga
there is one of the most interesting archeological zones in Italy. The
area, located at 44° 03N-8° 15E, about ten years or so
ago, the remains of a roman ship carrying thousands of amphora
was discovered; for this reason, the area for a radius of about
300m has been off limits to fishing, anchorage and of course
diving.